I used to nanny for a couple of kids in Philadelphia. One of them offered to do an impression of me for Ivo. "CaaaaLm day-own." apparently, that's how I was "calm down."
When I worked at a tri-lingual Kindergarten, all the kids would say "bea-uuuuuuuuuuutiful" when speaking English. I guess that that is how I say "beautiful."
Now, when I'm at home with Ivo and he's speaking in English and makes any mistake or asks about an English thing, I recognize my teacher voice creeping in. I have my "this is how it's pronounced" voice, for when Ivo says a word he's only ever read before (it has a questioning quality, so that the listener knows that they should repeat after me.) (It sounds better in a classroom than at the breakfast table.) Then there is the moment when he's misspoken or changed sentence mid-thought just like a native would and I jump in to correct and immediately try to stop myself. "It's - nevermind!"
Ivo is wonderfully patient with me. This is good, because I need to learn when to step in and when to leave well enough alone, when teaching English. I'm navigating the difference between having taught children and currently teaching adults. The biggest hurdle is that one of my students acts like a child.
Last week, we were learning about Names. One way to do this was the use of a family tree. One of my students decided that she hated family trees, that she can't do them in any language and doesn't intend to do them ever. O-K
She then had a similar reaction to grammar. When I asked the class to open their books, she loudly slammed her hands on her closed book and said "No!" I asked if there was a problem and she said "no grammar." I tried to soothe her and tell her that we would be doing this together, that we'd take it step-by-step, that she could ask any questions. no problem. Her hands remained on the book and, I swear, she shook her head with her mouth pinched closed, like a small child. Perhaps it was this child-like behavior that caused my reaction. Whatever it was, i put on my stern voice and said "Oh, I'll wait." and starred her down. I felt so foolish later.
On the up-side, I played a fairly childish game with my students last week, to practice people and place names and my students were totally down.
I'm really enjoying teaching classes. We're slowly discovering how to best care for Penny with our full schedules. We're also adjusting to living further away from the dog-doo receptacle. This seems silly, but it's a bit of a nuisance. It used to be, that Penny would poo on our way home and we'd conveniently throw it in the Robidog (said receptacle) in front of our house. now that there is none there, we'd need to drag the dog way out of the way, which is difficult for a stubborn pup. So now, I put the bright red bag of refuse in my bike basket, which is right by the front door. I then throw it away when I'm on my way out next. This often means that I'm walking down the road, dog-less with a bag of dog-poo, looking quite strange.
In the meantime, my husband, the husband of crazy dog-poo-lady, is invited to the Finnish ambassador's house for dinner tomorrow night.
No biggie.
Mittwoch, 12. Dezember 2012
Montag, 26. November 2012
I wasn't even supposed to be here today
Recently, Ivo had a big career decision to make. He'd been offered a gig closer to home, for more cash and a year longer contract and had to choose whether or not to leave the position he's in now; where he's working on a project that he's passionate about and has been shaping for 2 years.
There were pros and cons for both options. I listened to them all. The only 2 cents I gave was to speak to this career counselor, whom he'd enjoyed speaking to in the past.
A few times, Ivo tried to trick me into choosing for him. But I bested him and held my cards so close to my chest, that he didn't even know which choice I'd been hoping for. He thought that I'd wanted the closer job but the secret is, I wanted him to make a choice that would make him happiest in future. I think that he chose that.
In future, when it comes to moving house or applying at far away universities, I will make my voice heard in addition to listening to Ivo's ideas (I hope), but so far as career-shaping decisions that don't involve me moving, I'm fairly neutral. I do know that I do not ever want to be responsible for a decision that Ivo might regret.
When I was getting ready to move to Switzerland, Ivo asked me, in every way that he could think of, if I felt sure that this was a decision I was making for me. It was. I'd read Me Talk Pretty One Day by David Sedaris and remembered his way of comforting himself in anticipation of being an "ex-pat."
I promised Ivo that I would never say "I didn't even want to come here."
In the meantime, I think that Ivo reaffirming his comittment to his current job(s) will have a wonderful outcome.
There were pros and cons for both options. I listened to them all. The only 2 cents I gave was to speak to this career counselor, whom he'd enjoyed speaking to in the past.
A few times, Ivo tried to trick me into choosing for him. But I bested him and held my cards so close to my chest, that he didn't even know which choice I'd been hoping for. He thought that I'd wanted the closer job but the secret is, I wanted him to make a choice that would make him happiest in future. I think that he chose that.
In future, when it comes to moving house or applying at far away universities, I will make my voice heard in addition to listening to Ivo's ideas (I hope), but so far as career-shaping decisions that don't involve me moving, I'm fairly neutral. I do know that I do not ever want to be responsible for a decision that Ivo might regret.
When I was getting ready to move to Switzerland, Ivo asked me, in every way that he could think of, if I felt sure that this was a decision I was making for me. It was. I'd read Me Talk Pretty One Day by David Sedaris and remembered his way of comforting himself in anticipation of being an "ex-pat."
I promised Ivo that I would never say "I didn't even want to come here."
In the meantime, I think that Ivo reaffirming his comittment to his current job(s) will have a wonderful outcome.
Donnerstag, 30. August 2012
Not your mother's dog owner
When I'm out socializing my dog, (which involves awkward conversation among owners while the dogs terrorize or hump one another) I like to ask other dog owners how long they've had dogs and if this is their first. As coincidence has it, nearly every dog owner I encounter in Kreis 3 have been raised with dogs. This doesn't surprise me.
I'm unsurprised because these people react similar to one another, but unlike myself, when a non-dogwalker walks past. When a pedestrian turns a corner near the park or is approaching us on a sidewalk, I hold my dog tight. I interrupt my dog's eye-line and wait to see how the person is reacting to being near a dog. This is similar to the amount of space I give people when I go on public transport. This is because I was not raised with dogs, but was raised with a cynaphobic. My mother had a fear of dogs.
The dog owners in the hood have no compunction about telling scary stories of dogs eating or drinking something and being mortally ill or talking about the "dog-haters" in the world, but they seem completely ignorant of the fact that they're cynaphobic-haters.
But then, This is only my second pup. Maybe I'll learn
I'm unsurprised because these people react similar to one another, but unlike myself, when a non-dogwalker walks past. When a pedestrian turns a corner near the park or is approaching us on a sidewalk, I hold my dog tight. I interrupt my dog's eye-line and wait to see how the person is reacting to being near a dog. This is similar to the amount of space I give people when I go on public transport. This is because I was not raised with dogs, but was raised with a cynaphobic. My mother had a fear of dogs.
The dog owners in the hood have no compunction about telling scary stories of dogs eating or drinking something and being mortally ill or talking about the "dog-haters" in the world, but they seem completely ignorant of the fact that they're cynaphobic-haters.
But then, This is only my second pup. Maybe I'll learn
Dienstag, 21. August 2012
and yet more language
I missed the first week of my Swiss Sign Language course. That'd be the class where everyone gets to tell everyone why they're there. So I entered a class full of hearing people, unaware of their motivations.
II learned ASL at school in RI. My motivation for learning Swiss German sign is the desire to know more about the swiss Deaf community, to attend their poetry slams and generally pursue a language that can aid or replace the ASL that I am now steadily losing.
While waiting for the class to start, I walked over to the poster on the wall with the finger alphabet. There I discovered that swiss sign has finger signs for "ch" and "sch." Amazing.
In the break, I was talking to the teacher about where I'm from and then possibly made the worst first impression possible. Up until then we'd been having a great class. The teacher is Deaf, which is new for me. Apparently the first half of the first class included an interpreter. The second half, the students were able to discover how well our teacher speaks and lip reads and how well they can follow his signs with no previous education.
Anyhow, while talking to my teacher, he asked where I was from and I was spelling out places, as I didn't know if certain signs were international. I was pleased when I began asking about country names and discovered that they're mostly the same. Then I spelled out Philadelphia and the students around me got freaked out at the speed of my spelling. Then I felt like a teacher's pet and a weird person who doesn't fit.
But the class was amazing. We did these excellent exercises to work on body positioning and hand and wrist and head movement. This is something that wasn't really tended to in my ASL course. I'm curious if having a Deaf teacher means that the focus is different and I'm super excited about the class.
Our homework is to study the vocabulary that we learned yesterday. Each sign was slightly or completely different from ASL.
On the way home, I ran a kilometer to the train station in torrential rain with 2 fellow students. We squished into the train and dripped our way to Zürich and I got to hear their motivations for learning to sign.
Best cure for jet lag I've ever found: learning + torrential rain.
II learned ASL at school in RI. My motivation for learning Swiss German sign is the desire to know more about the swiss Deaf community, to attend their poetry slams and generally pursue a language that can aid or replace the ASL that I am now steadily losing.
While waiting for the class to start, I walked over to the poster on the wall with the finger alphabet. There I discovered that swiss sign has finger signs for "ch" and "sch." Amazing.
In the break, I was talking to the teacher about where I'm from and then possibly made the worst first impression possible. Up until then we'd been having a great class. The teacher is Deaf, which is new for me. Apparently the first half of the first class included an interpreter. The second half, the students were able to discover how well our teacher speaks and lip reads and how well they can follow his signs with no previous education.
Anyhow, while talking to my teacher, he asked where I was from and I was spelling out places, as I didn't know if certain signs were international. I was pleased when I began asking about country names and discovered that they're mostly the same. Then I spelled out Philadelphia and the students around me got freaked out at the speed of my spelling. Then I felt like a teacher's pet and a weird person who doesn't fit.
But the class was amazing. We did these excellent exercises to work on body positioning and hand and wrist and head movement. This is something that wasn't really tended to in my ASL course. I'm curious if having a Deaf teacher means that the focus is different and I'm super excited about the class.
Our homework is to study the vocabulary that we learned yesterday. Each sign was slightly or completely different from ASL.
On the way home, I ran a kilometer to the train station in torrential rain with 2 fellow students. We squished into the train and dripped our way to Zürich and I got to hear their motivations for learning to sign.
Best cure for jet lag I've ever found: learning + torrential rain.
Sonntag, 8. Juli 2012
controlling no more?
Yesterday, I emerged from my weekend certification course to discover an SMS from Ivo saying that he was at the animal emergency room with Penny.
After Ivo fished a chunk of moldy bread out of our pup's mouth on the river side, she instantly evacuated out of both ends and collapsed. Ivo called every vet and clinic we've ever known and then called a cab (requesting one with floor covers) and took her to the emergency clinic. The poor dear was so dehydrated that the docs couldn't palpate her organs. I got home and drove the car to meet them at clinic, but Ivo was there alone. The poop pooch had been admitted for IV fluids and antibiotics and tests.
My heart is slightly broken for our pech-puppy (pech: bad luck) but I never felt terrified while heading to the clinic. I knew that Ivo was doing everything that he could and that there was nothing that I could do. This is all terribly unremarkable for most people. But for me, the fact that I wasn't constantly thinking that I should have been there, that I could have done better, that if only I hadn't had this class.....
This is little, but it makes me happy.
I'll be alot happier when our pupperoni is home safe and sound and stinkin' up the joint
After Ivo fished a chunk of moldy bread out of our pup's mouth on the river side, she instantly evacuated out of both ends and collapsed. Ivo called every vet and clinic we've ever known and then called a cab (requesting one with floor covers) and took her to the emergency clinic. The poor dear was so dehydrated that the docs couldn't palpate her organs. I got home and drove the car to meet them at clinic, but Ivo was there alone. The poop pooch had been admitted for IV fluids and antibiotics and tests.
My heart is slightly broken for our pech-puppy (pech: bad luck) but I never felt terrified while heading to the clinic. I knew that Ivo was doing everything that he could and that there was nothing that I could do. This is all terribly unremarkable for most people. But for me, the fact that I wasn't constantly thinking that I should have been there, that I could have done better, that if only I hadn't had this class.....
This is little, but it makes me happy.
I'll be alot happier when our pupperoni is home safe and sound and stinkin' up the joint
Dienstag, 26. Juni 2012
last post from Kiev
____________________________
24.06.2012
Datcha
calmed.
Yesterday,
Tobi and Patricia arrived in Kiev from Moscow. Their journey began in Latvia a
while ago. After stopping over in St. Petersburg to stay with our friend
Danilla, they then took the train to Moscow. I must say that it’s lovely to
have another lady around and they’re such agreeable holiday mates. After giving
them a quick breakfast, we headed to Larissa and Vladi’s datcha for a relaxing
day. The datcha is about 12 km away from the city. The harrowing drive (I can
not imagine any tourist renting a car and giving the unwritten rules of
post-soviet roads a go) led us past elegant looking high-rises and massive
supermarkets. As we got nearer the holiday home, however, the streets got
shabbier and the houses were one-family constructions. Vladi and Larissa’s
datcha is large and covered in siding. Bars on the window and doors and an
alarm system keep it safe in their absence. The security features aren’t as
harsh-looking as the description may imply. Behing the garden is a quite large
shed; about the size of what I’d been expecting. When Tobi suggested that this
was their shed, I said that I thought it may be someone else’s datcha. Larissa
soon opened it’s doors however and revealed a number of lounge chairs and
plastic garden chairs. Vladi was meanwhile unzipping a tent which covered a
large table with benches, surrounded by mosquito netting. There was an outdoor
toilet with a lino floor that wasn’t too bad at all. Hands could be washed from
a spigot where hand soap lay next to the bucket, which collected our grey
water, which was then used to water Larissa’s incredible garden.
The
temperature was chillier than it had been and the sky was alternatively cloudy
and sunny. The others had a quick swim in the Nieper, which is meant to be
cleaner away from the city, but I found the air to be too cool for that. The
river was reached by a 10 minute walk along the road-side and the adrenaline
rush of crossing said road was as invigorating as a dip in cold water, I
suspect. The fellas got draft beers at a stand along the way and other than the
large billboard for a tiling company (picturing a woman wearing over-alls with
no shirt and a hard-hat) the way was quite rustic.
We had an
insanely massive lunch, a lovely nap in the garden and some really stimulating
conversation around the outdoor dining table. I tried to help Larissa as best I
could in preparing and washing up. My first attempt at offering help was met
with her turning her head and shouting to Vladi “Vlad, Jessica is trying to
tall me something and I don’t understand it.” (Or so it had sounded to me.) The
rest of our interactions were done with small attempts at using words that were
common in our languages or that we’d already learned (Larissa took a German
course years ago, but the knowledge has lapsed without practice. My Russian
knowledge is based, of course, on 2 weeks of holidays in Russian-speaking
countries.) Things like “Sol” and “Paprika” being offered while I was preparing
vegetables for grilling were easy. Compliments like “schön” while drying a
lovely tea cup were appreciated. Otherwise we worked silently and with a number
or gestures to denote what we wanted or needed.
Larissa is
an amazing orator. When she speaks, it’s always with passionate inflection and
an amazing cadence. One can often follow the general meaning of what she’s
saying if a few words can be caught. You only need to hang on, as her speech
arches and drops, to understand what she’s talking about. Then you need Ivo to
clarify that she’s referring to the “singing underpants” that were apparently
featured in Eurovision. She’s already let you know what she thought of them. In
other pronouncements, Vladi’s response of “let’s not talk about politics”
(indicated by tone and the Ukrainian word for politics’ similarity to English)
and Ivo’s lack of translation let’s one know that the soliloquy was likely
something anti-american or mildly conspiracy-based. (I discovered that after
pressing for translation a few times.) At lunch, she said that Ukraine was
falling apart before it’d ever really become a true nation. When I answered
that many countries are falling apart at the moment, she said that America
would never fall apart because there are too many truly patriotic people there.
This didn’t feel like a compliment.
Last night,
we went to the nearby bar “Nirvana”. The wait-staff all wear T-shirts from the
band Nirvana and the walls are papered with posters of American groups. The
football was only shown in the basement (above ground a TV was showing
America’s Funniest Home Videos.) We had an assortment of Ukrainian snacks and
were pleased when the surrounding viewers all showed themselves to be Spain
supporters. Patricia is particularly passionate about Spanish football, being
half Spanish, but did not loudly sing her version of the anthem. When I’d asked
her earlier in the afternoon how she feels about the lyricless anthem (there
hasn’t been any agreed-upon text since the 1950s and the text up to then was a
temporary post-Franco solution) she said that different regions have different
word, but that they are often quite rude.
Today we
will finally make an attempt at seeing the Lavra. It’s a Sunday so wait times
may be long, but I’m confident that we can keep one another entertained. I must
say, the more time I spend with Patricia and the more I get to know her the
more I like her. I’m quite excited that she and Tobi will be our downstairs
neighbors this fall.
Freitag, 22. Juni 2012
more adventures in Kiev
My previous
Maschrutka voyage in Petersburg had been over-filled and stinky and scary. The
two Mashrotka rides today, however, had seats enough for everybody and were
pretty darned pleasant. On out first ride, a woman entered and then rode two
stops without paying. Payment is 3 Grivna, no matter how far you’re going. One
either pays the driver directly or hands the money forward, person to person,
it the bus is full. The driver stayed at the stop and told the woman had to
pay. She had a heated exchange with the driver and then left the bus without
paying. Ivo then explained that she’d said “what about the foreigners?” (referring
to us.) The driver answered “They’ve paid; 1-2-3.” I think that she was
assuming that he’d charged us a foreigner’s price and so she should be able to
ride free on his profits.
Here there
are often different prices for foreigners. If prices are written somewhere,
they’ll often have a lower price advertised in Cyrilic and a higher price
advertised in English. Failing that, the price quoted verbally will vary with
language. When Ivo and I first went to St. Petersburg, an effort to buy a SIM
card for his handy was met with a flat refusal. When Ivo told his local
friends, they said that this was just because he was a foreigner and needed to
be more assertive. Sure enough, another visit to the Handy shop yielded a card,
likely more pricey than any one sold to a Russian.
Last night,
we met with Ivo’s hosts from 5 years ago. Pacha has been promoted to a chief
engineer and edits and corrects other engineer’s plans. Natascha (Pacha’s
cousin) was recently married to the man who accompanied herself and Ivo to that
same outdoor museum we visited, lo those five years ago. She works in imports
customs for a private company in Kiev and told us about a colleague who took a
job at customs in the airport shortly before the Eurocup. He has since
complained that there is no possibility of receiving bribes and that the job is
far worse for it. Natascha explained that bribes, in her job, are simply an
expected part of the system. Similarly, the expectation to refute accusations
of taking bribes is equally part of the system.
The two
cousin’s English has apparently improved a lot in the past 5 years. Either that
or they refused to speak to Ivo in English before so that he could practice his
Russian. Whatever it may be, they were able to express themselves very well in
English at an increasing rate as the beer and vodka was poured. We watched the
Portugal Czec game while having long and intense conversations about everything
under the sun (philosophy, biology, anthropology,...) in which every
long-winded exchange ended in someone calling someone else a “botanist”
(Ukranian for nerd.) Natascha shared a homemade “aphorismus”: women fake
orgasms and interest in football. She seemed more interested in talking about
pop-culture and personal lives than evolution and prejudices. The evening ended
with promises to see one another again. This is made more likely by the fact
that Natascha is hooking us up with an apartment for Tobi and Patricia, who are
coming tomorrow. I’ll head with Vladi to pick them up at the train station at
8am while Steff and Ivo head to the datcha before us, earlier in the morning.
We’ll all meet up at the datcha and grill and swim, we’ve been told. Today is
another sweltering day and we’ll head downtown to pick up souveniers.
___
And we did.
___
One of my
favorite things to do with Ivo when travelling is “guess the person”. We’ll be
sat somewhere and see someone and guess where they’re from and why they are
here. In Kiev at the moment, most people’s nationalities are either presented
in large letters on their chests or with flags painted on to their faces.
Nevertheless, we still find occasions to guess at more subtle citizens.
While
sitting outside the café after our Chernobyl museum visit, Ivo spotted a woman
and began: “She’s an American art student.” Apparently she resembled many
different American art history students he’d known in the past. As I was still
clearing my brain after the museum, I didn’t truly play along, but as I stood
up to go find the restroom, I ducked my head down and told Ivo quietly, “her
fork is in her left hand;” thus not contributing to, but crushing the game.
Yesterday
we took the metro from its farthest western point (though it appears that
construction is leading the way to further Metro stations.) As we headed into
the cars, a young woman opposite us considered standing and then decided to
sit. As she transferred her backpack onto her lap I observed that she had a Futurama
t-shit, with red collar and short sleeve hems. Her hair was frizzy and to her
shoulders, nothing held it back except her massive headphones. She closed her
eyes as she sat and listened. She did not tap her feet, which were in some sort
of rafting sandal.
“American:”
I began, “Shoes.”
“Canadian:”
Says Ivo “backpack. Or German?”
“Nope,
American: Futurama Tshirt.”
“Hmmm,”
says Ivo
“Canadian,”
I say “eyes closed on a rush hour train?”
“Canadian
sophomore on a trip alone. Her grandparents are Ukrainian.” Ivo contributes.
“She’ll be
a sophomore in the fall. She’s not sure if she wants to transfer schools
because no one at college seemed to get her.” I continue.
This woman
remained a mystery to us. Her eyes remained closed and she sat in her seat as
the train became more and more full. Eventually we were at our stop and
departed the train and will never know where the hell that lady was from or
where she was going.
This
reminds me of my obsession with an old pedestrian overpass n Providence. I
would sit on the foot-bridge over to India Point park and watch all of the
people driving places and try to imagine where they were going and why. Now and
again a truck would speed under and the old bridge would sway slightly and I’d
love feeling moved by the movement of these vehicles. I think that the initial
motivation to hang out there came from my summer in the hospital. I’d been encouraged
to walk around, but didn’t really like to. It wasn’t just the movement (it was
partially the movement) but that not many people want to walk around wearing a
johnny while pushing a massive IV tree around swinging their daily nutrition. I
never knew where I was supposed to be going because pacing the halls didn’t
seem that great but leaving the wing seemed like it would disturb the hospital
employees and visitors. The nurses also didn’t really like me to go by myself,
as I had a habit of feeling woozy.
So I’d push
my IV tree just outside the wing to the large windows that overlooked the large
street that ran between the two wings of the building. People emerged from the
Orange line and if I leaned my head against the window I could see foot and car
traffic on Washington St. I would watch the people and try to judge how hot it
was outside from their clothing and pace. Where I was it was the same
temperature the entire month: mildly chilly. But out there, those people had
temperature fluctuation; they had places to go. Some people had lunches in bags
that were solid, not bags of foods in intravaeneous form. These people had
important, annoying, envigorating, gauling, pleasant lives. Maybe their
visiting someone or just going for noodles. Maybe they work around here or are
tourists in search of Chinatown. Maybe their med-students or are heading in for
a colonoscopy. Maybe they just want a coffee at one of the city’s 3,000 Au Bon
Pains and the New England Medical Center location is most convenient.
Now the
footbridge to India Point has been newly built and wouldn’t sway if a herd of
elephants were racing beneath it. Sure, there are still families, employees,
employers and young couples speeding underneath it, but I don’t get to feel a
part of it anymore. Not if the bridge doesn’t shake from their momentum.
Day 6 in Kiev
20.06.2012
The heat is
wilting us like so many flowers. It – is – hot. This isn’t that spectacular a
fact, but after the cold and rain that we’ve been having in Zürich for the past
two months, it’s a shock to the system. (Die Friseur helt nicht.) Monday we
were determined to go swimming. As our guide book said that the river water was
a bit sketchy and I am on immunosuppresants, we decided to check out one of the
pools on the island of Hydropark. Our belongings would be safe, our persons
would be safe, and as we would come to find out, our ears would be assaulted by
house music.
The pool
was refreshing and not over used. It seemed that most of the insanely gorgeous
(and mostly ematiated) Ukrainian women prefer to bake in the sun and then use
the outdoor shower to cool off and maintain their hairstyles. (Hydropark; 13:00
die Friseur helt.) While Ivo and I were swimming, a man came and taped off a
section of the deep end. When Ivo asked if we could still swim, the man
answered in Ukrainian and neither of us knew what he was saying. It turns out
that they were using the pool to film something. Bored looking scantily clad
women waited and waited in the hot sun until “Action” was called and then
strode the 2 feet to the pool, only to the hear cut, and return to their
boredom two feet away.
We
understood the desire to film at this pool. It was pretty schi-schi (despite
the relatively low cost.) Pool boys rushed around getting towels and umbrellas
and servers took your plastic card that you loaded at admission for drink and
snack orders. Bare chested women in g-strings daintily covered their nipples to
cool off under the shower and then made a show of how cold it was in a rehearsed-looking
way and two women who donned a series of revealing costumes, danced on blocks
in stiletto heels to the house music that banged along at an increasing volume
throughout the day. We’re told that these pools become popular night-clubs in
the evenings, but we didn’t stick around to find out. We tottered home past the
outdoor weight gym made of truck parts and hit the metro and went home for a quick
dinner before heading to Vladi and Larissa’s to watch the game.
During the
game there was a surprising exchange of jokes. (Our poor interpreter had to
continually repeat each joke in the appropriate language each time, all while
enjoying the game and a cold beer.) I say surprising because if the cultural
differences wouldn’t get in the way, one would imagine the age difference
might. Vladi is in his 50s and Larissa in her 70s and it was the latter who was
telling some ribald jokes. We also somehow got on to the topic of dance (I
believe that watching Ireland reminded our hosts of their love of Michael
Flattley.) I asked Larissa if she had to take dance in school and if Ukrainian
children still do today. We then discussed the previous practice of learning
folk dances in Switzerland and the US which are now defunct (I of course meant
square dancing.) Larissa then said that there is no culture in America, because
it is too young. For the second time in two days, Ivo found himself vehemently
defending America in response to this very statement. Whereas his first defence
was to point out that Steff (the initial accuser of American culturelessness)
was a consummate consumer of American pop-culture: the music, the books, the
movies, the TV programs. Steff’s pop-culture consumption is nearly purely
Yankee. Larissa, however, does not consume American media. She also belongs to
a culture that Ivo loves so much he’s devoted his adult life to it. It was
pretty pleasing to see my husband defend my land so stridently. In the end,
however, we suspect that Larissa does not know that I am American and likely
would not have said anything had she known. Steff, however….
Tuesday was
equally hot and we had a rough start getting into the city and getting money
changed at midday. We’d planned to go the Chernobyl museum on Tuesday, thinking
that the Sweden:France football game would lift our spirits if anything could.
First, though, we had a gorgeous (sweaty) walk through the old town, past
amazing cathedrals and through a park and strolled down to the Nikolai Bulgakov
museum through “Artist’s Alley” and down an ancient road with stalls of arts
and crafts for sale. When we got to the museum, we said that we’d like to go
through alone, as the tours were only in Russian and Ukrainian. When we began,
however, the nice lady who took us to the starting room of the author’s
childhood home tour began describing how the house was set up. As Ivo
translated that the furnishing that were natural wood color were originals and
that the furniture painted white were made to represent the furnishings in
Bulgakov’s semi-autobiographical work The White Guard, the guide realized that
we spoke German and continued the tour in her best high German. The tour was
whimsical and sweet and ends with you leaving the heroine of one of his book’s
bedrooms through a wardrobe and re-entering Bulgakov’s bedroom, where the tour
began. It was so lovely that even Steff, who’s not read a Bulgakov book
thoroughly enjoyed it
Afterwards,
we passed the stalls and stands and headed for lunch at popular buffet
restaurant chain. There was a suprising array of vegetarian options and a not
so surprising amount of Swedes with bedrolls (They’ve been camping-out on an
island south of Hydropark) and we had a lovely lunch (at 4pm) and then headed
off to the Chernobyl museum. On our way, we employed our puppy Penny’s tactic:
keeping to the shady sides of the street. (If one of strays into the sun, the
other will inevitably call out “here Penny!”) The museum, like the World War 2
museum, was amazingly setup and very dramatic. We chose to take the audio tour
and Ivo and I shared a recording in German while Steff listened to an English
description of the artifacts that were on display behind glass cases. Where the
barbed wire had twisted through the air at the WW2 museum, here there were
air-hoses leading to fire and haz-mat suits like those used in the 80’s not so
far from where we are now. As anticipated, the museum was daunting and left us
feeling a little deflated. We grabbed an espresso at a café around the corner
and made our plan for the rest of the evening.
We headed
to a park that is described in our guidebook under the heading “4 days in Kiev”
apparently, this park and it’s blini stand are not to be missed. When we got to
the stand, we saw that there was a restaurant attached to it and decided to sit
in it’s garden and have a beer and vodka. As we sat at our table (with copies
of both Kiev ex-pat newspapers) pipes along the tented roof misted us with
water to help keep us cool. It was crazy and lovely and refreshing. We wound up
having plates of pickled things and bread and the fellas shared a plate of lard
slices (very popular here) and after a rousing discussion of American
Imperialism, realized that time had flown and that we’d best be heading off to
the stadium.
Sweden was
still very well represented at the game, despite their position in the ranking.
The stands were a sea of yellow and light-blue, but we soon figured out that
these were not merely Sverige fans. As loud as the chants and songs were for
Sweden (we continued to sing Zwerge instead of Sverige) the louder chants were
when someone would sing “U-krai-ina” and we clap and sing a “U-krai-ina”
response. This call and response was peppered through the game as Sweden
soundly beat France and Ukraine lost to England, revealing that our match on
Sunday will be in the audience of Italy and England. We’re totally thrilled!
The singing
of our host country continued on the walk to the metro, on the escalator to the
metro and in the metro all the way to our stop. It was exciting. I’m definitely
glad that we’re here and not in Poland (especially with my Russia-loving
spouse!) (PS the only significant crimes to be reported during this Eurocup have
been those that happened after the Poland and Russia game – 183 reports of
assault and other crimes.)
Day 3 in Kiev
17.06.2012
Day 3 in
Kiev
Yesterday
started with rain and cold during the trip to the market but the sun shone all
afternoon and gave us comfortable temperatures. We took the metro to the square
where the Orang Revolution took place. Now, however, it is the FanZone. We couldn’t
enter because we had a freshly purchased expensive bottle of mineral water and
no such dangerous products are allowed within the fan limits.
We walked
along the FanZone and ducked around the corner of a building to call a
restaurant that we’d found in lonely planet; Pervak. While Ivo called to
reserve an out door table within the next half hour, Steff and I watched a
drunken Swede strip to the waist and roll around on the ground in front of 4
young guards. When he tried to stand (a valiant effort, considering how drunk
he was) the nearest guard gently pushed him down. He was making quite a racket
and his colleagues were sat about 3 feet away on a step, laughing at him.
We
continued down the FanZone, walking down the middle of the street as soon as we
were away from the protected and Coke sponsored inner area. Large trailers with
banners in Ukrainian and English proclaimed their allegiance with their
“beloved Julia” and their hatred of the current government. Me thinks that
participants of the Orange Revolution would prefer these banners to those
advertising Carlsburg beer within the Zone. Then again, not merely the ads, but
the masses of vomiting and drunken foreigners may have also given the
revolutionaries pause.
Pervak had
been described in Lonely Planet as an authentic Ukrainian restaurant with
modern takes on classic dishes and very little kitch. The waitresses were
dressed in corsets, two large carved figures are at either side of the host’s
stand and are dressed as a sailor and farmer. The downstairs bar’s stools are
made to look like horse’s rear ends, tails and all. Yup, not kitchy at all. We
drank smoked apple and berry juice and had some super great food and then
headed across the street to the Lucky Pub. This place was described in Lonely
Planet as being likely to be a popular spot during the Euro Cup 2012 (it was
written in 2010.) It has 13 TV screens and was filled with locals and
foreigners alike. I ordered a milkshake and asked what flavors they had “only
milkshake flavor” was the answer. Ivo said, “like, vailla, or….?” and she
admitted that vanilla was the milkshake flavor, yes. The actual milkshake
seemed to be milk with powder mix and a banana, poured in a glass with
marachinno syrup and topped with whipped cream. This - - interesting –
milkshake reminded me of the insane milkshake flavors (27?) at Pearl’s burgers
in the Tenderloin of San Francisco, including Nutella and other craziness. I
never had a milkshake there and sucking some banana through a straw made me
think that I should try to have less regrets in my travels and that none of it
has to do with milkshakes.
After
Russia’s victory we walked back through the FanZone. We found a busker singing
Kino songs. Ivo discovered Kino when we were in Petersburg and went to his
friends’ for dinner. After we ate, Ivo and Igor took turns playing the guitar
(Ivo playing it like a bass) while each fella’s partner sang along to a classic
song from our youth. Igor and Sveta sang mostly Kino songs and we later learned
that Igor’s personal style was very much taken from Kino. They both come from
the Caucuses. But on this night in Kiev, a large group of young Russians and
Ukrainians sang loudly and passionately as a busker played and sang the songs
of a revolutionary musician who became popular decades ago. It was lovely.
Today we
headed to the Mother Homeland statue. The large steely lady holds a
disproportionately short sword in one hand and a shield in the other.
Apparently nothing can be higher than the nearby monostary and thus it is
shorter than it should be. After a walk down the river, we saw the mother
looming above the trees. We walked under the highway and bought entry into a
garden with lovely floral designs of EM host countries past and present.
There’s something so touching about seeing a football made of shrubbery.
After that
we walked past stalls selling wares and on to a veritable candy shop for the
boys. The candy shop today was gardens
of military vehicles that line the way to the monument. We popped into a museum
of wars in foreign lands to buy Steff entry into a pen where a Soviet
helicopter from the war in Afghanistan stood. He and Ivo climbed inside the
machine and photographed one another while I sat and people watched. The day
had involve much sun and walking so far, so I was glad to sit in the shade and
glad that I was not wearing the 5-6 inch heels that many of the other visitors
were wearing.
We then
walked through a tunnel with amazing 3d carvings in the walls representing the
soldiers and home-front of the great patriotic war. We then went to a second
museum that connects to the statue. We decided to only purchase a ticket that
would take us to the middle platform below the statue’s feet. A ticket to climb
the ladder through the mother’s arm to her shield would involve a 3 hour wait.
Despite the large and interesting and well displayed museum, we couldn’t
possibly spend 3 hours walking around there and claustrophobia pushed the camel
over while making the decision.
The
Ukrainian accounts of the Great Patriotic War are apparently far more balanced
than those Ivo has found in Russia. It was very effecting, however; very
emotionally draining. After visiting the platform and taking photos and taking
in what we could see of this big huge city, we tried to find our way to another
Metro stop. Along the way, we got to see young boys with doves who offered to
perch them on visitors’ arms, as well as a british man getting short with a
stall attendant for not understanding “TWO ICED TEAS!” quickly enough and a man
in an SUV driving quickly onto the pedestrian way, blasting music, we got to
eat lemon-chocolate swirled soft-serve ice cream. We made our way home and had
a rest and then I cooked us up some Pelmyeni and Vereniky (vegetable dumplings
and meat dumplings) and spinach with pickles and now we’re just eagerly
awaiting the next Euro match.
If tonight
is as hot as today was, we’ll likely make our way to the Hydropark and go
swimming in the river. We’re still trying to figure out how to do that without
getting robbed, so it’s a real adventure. After all, if Ivo’s camera could be
so well lifted from a backpack he was wearing (a big, heavy camera, that is),
we’ll need to be clever about our belongings.
Arriving in Kiev
Kiev,
Ukraine 16.06 (Die Frisseur helt) (that’s a joke that the boys kept
telling yesterday ever since we had to go onto the tarmac in Zürich to catch
our AirFrance flight. It’s apparently from an ad for hairspray.)
We met
Stef at the bus stop at 5:39 and were all relatively fit, despite the early
hour. At the airport things went smoothly and we had a coffee and snack and I
was far calmer than I usually am pre-travel. The calm held while we arrived in Paris and
discovered that the time we needed to get from one terminal to the next meant
that we would miss our connecting flight. Luckily, as we learned this, we also
learned that there was another flight 3 hours later, which would get us there
in time to have dinner with our hosts and get to the game on time. (Die Ruhe
helt.) We went to customer service and got our new tickets, called Vladi, who’d
wanted to pick us up, to tell him we were delayed and I ran to the bathroom.
When I exited the bathroom, I couldn’t find the boys and began to freak out. I
reached them on our cell phone and the decision was made to eat some food. (Most
likely the reason for the freak-out. It was already 10 am and I’d not yet
eaten.)
After a
harrowing flight with dips and dives and crazy turbulence, we arrived safely in
Kiev and began our Cyrilic alphabet lessons with Ivo while waiting for passport
control. We then nabbed our luggage and discovered that Steff’s bag had not
arrived. (As I write this, it still hasn’t arrived) Ivo took the opportunity to
show us that we needn’t worry because he knew the language and was unafraid to
go from one line to the next, getting a form stamped and then going back again.
Vladi was
waiting for us with bottles of water and a large station wagon to accommodate
our luggage (Steff’s bag was the smallest of our travel gear.) He has such a
large car because he is an RC model plane flyer. It’s been a hobby since his
days in the Air force as a youth. We eaked out of the parking lot and then
zoomed crazily around highways. Despite using a Vladi’s clever detour, we hit
traffic next to some gorgeous fields with vegetables and cows. In the breakdown
lane, a line of Ukrainians who had no time for such traffic reversed back to
the rotary in an orderely line. Another car simply drove over the field to
bypass the traffic. Vladi spotted the origin of traffic, where cars were
driving normally, about 100 meters or so ahead.
“Good news! It’s just an accident” (the accident was gnarly – a Zhiguli
had been destroyed.) While waiting in the traffic, a spotty young man appeared
out of nowhere and began making inquiries of Vladi. Vladi responded
monosyllabically and I began to imagine that the fellow was begging, until he
began to smile widely, thanked Vladi and ran back to a car which he’d left (and
I hadn’t seen before) to drive slowly forward with the last of the traffic.
Apparently the young man had just ordered the same car that Vladi was driving
and wanted to know if he was satisfied with it.
We were not
only gifted the useful water on that trip. Vladi had also bought us a SIM card.
He had to explain it a bit, as it was written in Ukranian and not Russian. We
got to their house and instantly were greeted with wonderful smells from the
kitchen. Larissa had been cooking. We were worried about being late to the
match once the food began to be served and after the third time standing to
toast something else with our vodka or beer. Luckily, the France Ukraine game
had a rain delay and our game was thus also delayed. We ate and drank and gave
our wonderful hosts their gifts, were shown our amazing apartment and then
Vladi sweetly drove us to the Metro station.
Our Metro
station is above ground. At 9:30 pm it was still light enough that the interior
lights weren’t yet in use. They would simply blink before a stop. When they went
on and stayed on, we knew that we were headed underground. Many metro stations
in the post-soviet space are hundreds of meters underground (700-800 in some
places.) They are meant to double as nuclear bomb shelters. This makes me
wonder about the extreme depth of the Metro stations in Washington DC. Announcements
along our trip were helpfully broadcast in Ukrainian and English; a lovely
effort by the Eurocup host country. Upon arrival at our first transfer, purple
(the color of this Eurocup) signs with football flowers showed us the way to
the train that would take us to the FanZone and finally the Stadium. Really,
all we needed to do was follow the loud Brits and Swedes. At this point, we
began to see the sweet baby-faced guards who were watching the crowds. They are
young police academy students and look like spotty pre-teens with their tall
hats perched on the backs of their buzzed heads.
As we
ascended to the FanZone, an 8 year old England fan was blowing on an obnoxious
horn. We all confirmed how grateful we were that vuvuzelas had been banned and
I began to hope that this other form of horn (a canister with a handle, the boy
blew into an opening and seemed to be able to control the volume with the
intensity of his breathe – it sounded like an angry duck) would be banned next
Cup. As I was beginning to get properly frustrated with this boy, we came upon
another group of baby-officers and the boy demonstrated how quietly and
politely he could make his horn sound. Soon we were in a pleasantly sized and
spaced crowd of fans. The excitement was building but the stadium was not yet
in sight. We were just a jolly group of football fans, walking in the middle of
a closed 4-lane road.
A group of
fans in crosses of Saint George began singing the national anthem and Ivo
admitted sadly that we were likely missing the actual anthem at that very
moment. (We did not yet know that our game would be politely delayed due to the
first game’s delay.) Ivo has always cherished the National anthems at the
International tournaments “it’s what makes them so special.” He’d told me
before about the fact that his grandmother (the woman responsible for his
football fandom) used to think that it was a shame when players didn’t sing
along to their national anthem (I imagine that Spain is excluded from this
criticism, as they have no words.)
As we
approached the stadium and walked through a small barrier, I’m embarrassed to
say that I felt like I was in the fourth Harry Potter movie. Those special
effects used for the world quidditch cup stadium were the only thing near what
I was seeing now. The stadium was out of this world.
We came in
and then walked around half of the stadium to get to our section. Choosing to
avoid the concourse, we walked around the exterior and tried to judge from fan
sounds and announcer sounds if how far into the game they were (no one thought
to check their watch, for fear of disappointment.) We saw blue and yellow
uniforms playing against dark uniforms on the screens through the gate and
thought that the game was already on. Little did we know that they were showing
the France Ukraine match.
Our seats
were crazy close. I’ve never been that close before. (FCZ’s stadium has a very
large racing track around its pitch, which creates a good barrier for flaming garbage
and crazy fans, so one could never be
this close. The speed and intensity was so much more impressive at this
distance. We were sat among Sweden fans and a smattering of England fans. My
sense of self-preservation led me to cheer for Sweden, but Steff and Ivo stuck
with England, despite the company it meant that they were keeping. A drunken
English man with a mid-lands accent harassed his beloved team with a string of
insults, from calling players “muppets” to “bastards” to “fockin’ eejits.”
Things that
we saw that were not televised: Upon arrival, we saw a string of nattily
dressed guards in black marching up a stairwell. At the half-time, a group of
guards with green pinafores came to our section and removed racist banners that
had been draped over the rail. The guards for the field had three levels, so
far as I can tell: light yellow-green pinafores were the young and yawning
guards, darker green pinafores were more beefy, older, more serious guards.
Guards in orange pinafores were in charge of the others. In front of our
section, in the second half, there was a light-green guard sat every 3 feet. In
front of the more passionate Sweden sector (in the Northeast corner) were light
green and dark-green guards every 1.5 feet. In front of the more passionate
England fans in the Southeast, throughout the second half, the number of guards
became uncountable. Dark-green and orange guards stood shoulder to shoulder
against the railing. They picked up England fans who had jumped over the rail
during their second goal and seemed to multiply. After England’s 3rd goal, a fan jumped the railing
and the guards and began running on the track toward the pitch. An orange guard
took the man down, with an arm around his throat and was joined by 4 other
guards who then threw him into the crowd. During this time, more England fans
jumped over the rail and were instantly…inspired…. To climb back to their
seats.
After the
England win, we stayed through “We Will Rock You” and half of “3 Lions” and then began to make our exit. As
we left, the nattily dressed guards were back, marching over catwalks toward
the stadium and down the stairs, herding fans out. The most upsetting guard
situation was something that would appear banal: The OMON. The Omron stood in a
straight line with weapons and helmets, not moving. Other guards we would later
see, (blocking some metro entrances and lining others) included men and women,
some who were smiling, and giving directions. The Omon need only stand there to
scare me. These are the same soldiers whose actions in Chechneya give one
nightmares. These are the soldiers that we saw in Petersberg on a lovely city
ramble, who were in a courtyard behind a police building beating dummies with
sticks and cheering wildly. Their blue camouflage gives me the shivers and I
was glad to be leaving them behind. Our trip home was far less sardine-like
than I imagined and our walk home from the metro was long and peaceful. People
sat on benches in front of their buildings and chatted and smoked. The craggy,
potholed sidewalks made me glad that all that vodka at dinner was through my
system. We stopped at the 24 hour “magazin” near our place to pick up a
toothbrush for Steff and some Kefir for the morning and headed to our
apartment. I took a cold shower. I stupidly (or sleepily? – we had been up
since 5am and it was now 1:30 am) hadn’t thought to move the faucet’s handle to
the blue stripe when no hot water greeted the red stripe.
This
morning we slept in. I was up at 10 and did some work and the men slept on
until 11:30. At noon, Larissa (the other half of our incredible hosting team)
had told us to call around breakfast time and called us herself to ask if we
planned to sleep all day. We went down to meet her and she’d prepared an
amazing breakfast for us. She took us to the market and then we went out to the
farmer’s stalls to get fruit and veg and milk products (we’d bought something
like 5 sacks of frozen Pelmeni dumplings in the supermarket) I waited in line
for fruit and veg while Steff guarded the groceries and Ivo and Larissa went
into the dairy trailer. The line was faster than expected and suddenly I was
confronted with the prospect of ordering my own produce. I held up two fingers
and a thumb and said “drei corgette? Gurke?” The young lady chuckled and
grabbed three cucumbers. “Ist das alles?”, she asked in German. I was relieved
and embarrassed and continued my order until Ivo came and began saying numbers
of kilos for the fruit that we needed. I’m unsure what it would have come to if
I’d needed to understand how many Grivna I owed.
Ivo just called the airline (at my insistence) to
inquire about Steff’s luggage. A recording told him to pusk “1” for Ukrainian
and “2” for English. Ivo speaks Russian, not Ukrainian, so he pushed “2” an was
promptly hung up on. He called again an pushed the “1” key and was able to
ascertain that the bag was in the airport and would be delivered in the next 48
hours. So that’s good.
Dienstag, 12. Juni 2012
from rain to Ukraine
There is a perpetual rainstorm here in Zürich. It's lasted the last few weeks. What makes it worse is the tease of sporadic gorgeous weather and sunshine that are erased by chilly temperatures and deluges. Meanwhile, at the start of every Euro Cup game in Ukraine, the announcers let us know, that it's boiling there. So, apparently we'll be trading our showers for baths of sweat by the end of the week.
Ukraine isn't so very exotic, but I've come to terms with the fact that many exotic destinations I'd like to visit are off-limits to the Auto-immune challenged. I'll never go to India or Bali. After all, a trip east as far as Ukraine or Russia means taking along doses of steroids and antibiotics and my husband's worry about how soon before our trip I take a my immunsuppresants.
After reading an article in Das Magazin, about drug-addled Metalist fans who follow their team religiuously despite knowing that every game is fixed and Panorama's "Stadiums of Hate", all about the neo nazi culture in Ukrainian and Polish Ultras, I feel properly ready. I'll take my drugs and my tank tops that cover my Hebrew tattoo and head off to watch some football. Hopefully the only parasite I come home with is the kind that gets delivered in 9 months.
Ukraine isn't so very exotic, but I've come to terms with the fact that many exotic destinations I'd like to visit are off-limits to the Auto-immune challenged. I'll never go to India or Bali. After all, a trip east as far as Ukraine or Russia means taking along doses of steroids and antibiotics and my husband's worry about how soon before our trip I take a my immunsuppresants.
After reading an article in Das Magazin, about drug-addled Metalist fans who follow their team religiuously despite knowing that every game is fixed and Panorama's "Stadiums of Hate", all about the neo nazi culture in Ukrainian and Polish Ultras, I feel properly ready. I'll take my drugs and my tank tops that cover my Hebrew tattoo and head off to watch some football. Hopefully the only parasite I come home with is the kind that gets delivered in 9 months.
Montag, 28. Mai 2012
Bombadier
Despite reading Dracula in Ivo's abscence (our pick for this time apart) I haven't had any nightmares until last night. I don't know if it was from reading about police use of drones in the States or Das Magazins artikel about the Metalist fans in Kharkiv, Ukraine (in combination with last months bombs in Dnipropetrovsk). Whatever it was, my dream woke me after a canister bomb went off next to me after I was showered with bombs while escaping some hotel-casino owned by the mafia, in order to right some great wrong. There were also friends from SF and babies in it, so it was more complex than mere fear of Kyiv, methinks.
I've been so blissfully distracted by nervousness about the water and wc situation in Kyiv that I'd forgotten to be nervouse about fan culture in the Ukraine. Simultaneously, I realize that the alternative to (possibly scary) authentic Ukranian fan culture at the Euro is a super fake family-friendly culture. Which is worse? I guess I'll have to chill out and meditate before sleep because I'm super crazy grateful that I get to go and see Kyiv and 3 Eurocup games and have fun with friends and Ivo.
I've been so blissfully distracted by nervousness about the water and wc situation in Kyiv that I'd forgotten to be nervouse about fan culture in the Ukraine. Simultaneously, I realize that the alternative to (possibly scary) authentic Ukranian fan culture at the Euro is a super fake family-friendly culture. Which is worse? I guess I'll have to chill out and meditate before sleep because I'm super crazy grateful that I get to go and see Kyiv and 3 Eurocup games and have fun with friends and Ivo.
Mittwoch, 25. April 2012
Unattended things may be robbed.
I remember once entering a train with my mother- and brother-in-law. We wanted to join a guy in a four seat section, but his bag was on the seat. My brother-in-law offered to help him stow it in the luggage rack and the guy was shocked. There in the rack were massive unattended bags. The guy looked at me and said, "people just leave them here?" I shrugged and grinned. It was true and I loved it. People just left there stuff and it was there when they got back.
Moving from Philadelphia to Zürich was like moving to the 1950s. Children ran free with out an idea about "stranger danger," Sundays were all about family, women got time off for having babies in a meaningful way (well, maybe that's not so 50's.) I loved that people would leave there bags on the train and be sure that they'd remain safe.
Ah, but all good things must end and the newspaper this morning brought the news that we must be more careful with our belongings in the train. The funny thing is, it wasn't even the big bags on the train that they were worrying about. The warning was that things of worth (laptops and wallets) should be kept on your person where you can feel it. This is insane and still super encouraging. Apparently, I still live in a partially idyllic land, I guess.
Moving from Philadelphia to Zürich was like moving to the 1950s. Children ran free with out an idea about "stranger danger," Sundays were all about family, women got time off for having babies in a meaningful way (well, maybe that's not so 50's.) I loved that people would leave there bags on the train and be sure that they'd remain safe.
Ah, but all good things must end and the newspaper this morning brought the news that we must be more careful with our belongings in the train. The funny thing is, it wasn't even the big bags on the train that they were worrying about. The warning was that things of worth (laptops and wallets) should be kept on your person where you can feel it. This is insane and still super encouraging. Apparently, I still live in a partially idyllic land, I guess.
Freitag, 20. April 2012
Tips for people approaching dogs, learned from people approaching my dog.
Tip one: Don't stop at telling your child to approach a dog slowly, go ahead and warn them against waving their hand in front of the dog's face. Apparently, they'll want to do that.
Tip two, go ahead and touch a dog's muzzle if they seem amenable, but don't be surprised by the slobber. (Jowls should warn you of slobber in advance.)
Tip three: If you are curious about whether or not a dog will bite you, don't stick a finger in front of it's mouth saying, "Are you going to bite me? Do you bite? Should I be afraid that you'll bite me?"(If the answer is yes, you'll be sorely disappointed.
Tip one: Don't stop at telling your child to approach a dog slowly, go ahead and warn them against waving their hand in front of the dog's face. Apparently, they'll want to do that.
Tip two, go ahead and touch a dog's muzzle if they seem amenable, but don't be surprised by the slobber. (Jowls should warn you of slobber in advance.)
Tip three: If you are curious about whether or not a dog will bite you, don't stick a finger in front of it's mouth saying, "Are you going to bite me? Do you bite? Should I be afraid that you'll bite me?"(If the answer is yes, you'll be sorely disappointed.
Freitag, 13. April 2012
Still an Ausländerin
So, It's 6 years since I moved here and I'm still harping on about my foreignness. There are multiple reasons for this. My days are spent teaching English to other immigrants who are struggling to learn yet another language (sometimes simultaneously learning their German.) I teach engineers, lawyers and pharmacists who now live here and need multiple new languages to continue their careers in their new homes.
I moved here in 2006 and now friends ask if I'm going to get my citizenship. This decision has been postponed because of our little 13 month jaunt in North America. The question sounds different depending on who's asking. It's tax time and the annual freak-out about the American government claiming it's tax money abroad has been refreshed (just in time for labor day).
The third reason I'm thinking about my foreignness is that people continue to stereotype about foreigners right to my face, either ignoring my transplatation or forgetting it. For example, when describing my pup's intestinal infection resulting from eating something gross from the bushes when I wasn't watching, the listener said "damn foreigners chuck their compost out their kitchen windows." I was telling this to a German friend and she said, "It's ridiculous that the Swiss still say 'Auslaänder'." I was embarassingly unaware that there was any German alternative. I'd come her an outsider and imagined that I'd die here an outsider. Apparently, in German, ousiders are more affectionately called "Immigranten." It's so damn semantic, but for some reason it feels better. I'd prefer that.
In the meantime, I'm mistaken for a Belgian or Dutch lady and encourage my students to see more similarities than differences when they can. What else can we do, we band of immigrants?
I moved here in 2006 and now friends ask if I'm going to get my citizenship. This decision has been postponed because of our little 13 month jaunt in North America. The question sounds different depending on who's asking. It's tax time and the annual freak-out about the American government claiming it's tax money abroad has been refreshed (just in time for labor day).
The third reason I'm thinking about my foreignness is that people continue to stereotype about foreigners right to my face, either ignoring my transplatation or forgetting it. For example, when describing my pup's intestinal infection resulting from eating something gross from the bushes when I wasn't watching, the listener said "damn foreigners chuck their compost out their kitchen windows." I was telling this to a German friend and she said, "It's ridiculous that the Swiss still say 'Auslaänder'." I was embarassingly unaware that there was any German alternative. I'd come her an outsider and imagined that I'd die here an outsider. Apparently, in German, ousiders are more affectionately called "Immigranten." It's so damn semantic, but for some reason it feels better. I'd prefer that.
In the meantime, I'm mistaken for a Belgian or Dutch lady and encourage my students to see more similarities than differences when they can. What else can we do, we band of immigrants?
Montag, 9. April 2012
then and now
3 years ago, I celebrated Easter by walking through Pére Lachaise cemetary in Paris. I was there for a month but spent the morning looking at old and new graves, watching Japanese girls pretend to kiss Oscar Wilde's tombstone.
I would never have anticipated that Easter back in 1994 when I was 13 and wolfing down easter chocolate and getting car sick on my way to my aunt's house for ham and cheesy potatoes.
Back in 2009 I'd never have anticipated that I would spend some future Easter healing from a misscarriage.
This afternoon, after returning to Zürich, our neighbors were having an Easter-egg hunt. A few children were toddling around searching for the eggs. A woman was taking photos, a few little ones were being dandled around. Ivo said "That'll be us in 5 years." But let noone say that I'm a woman who can't learn. I can not even begin to imagine what will be happening on Easter in 5 years.
I would never have anticipated that Easter back in 1994 when I was 13 and wolfing down easter chocolate and getting car sick on my way to my aunt's house for ham and cheesy potatoes.
Back in 2009 I'd never have anticipated that I would spend some future Easter healing from a misscarriage.
This afternoon, after returning to Zürich, our neighbors were having an Easter-egg hunt. A few children were toddling around searching for the eggs. A woman was taking photos, a few little ones were being dandled around. Ivo said "That'll be us in 5 years." But let noone say that I'm a woman who can't learn. I can not even begin to imagine what will be happening on Easter in 5 years.
Montag, 26. März 2012
5 years as Mijnssen or Parenthood is never Painless
Tomorrow marks 5 years since Ivo and I said "Ja, ich will" in Zürich's Civil Registry and began planning our actual vows for our July wedding. 5 years ago, Ivo had just returned from Kiev and I had just been discharged from the Waidspital, my body having rejected a porcine plug that was meant to aid my chron's ravaged body.
3 years ago tomorrow, Ivo and I began our path to parenthood. Tearful conversations and beautiful trust-building sessions with a family psychologist readied us for the adoption process.
5 years ago at City hall, I used my German to say that I agreed to legally bind myself to Ivo Mijnssen for life. But it was in July that he and I used one another's native languages to promise one another our best intentions, our trust, fidelity and support.
Tomorrow we are eligible for adoption in Switzerland. I've come far enough that I could conduct that process in Swiss-German, filling out forms in high German and translate what is necessary for any American adoption agency. But I don't think we will do that. No, this week, instead of using my Swiss German to re-start the process to adopt a child, I am learning the vocabulary of loss. Last week it was confirmed that Ivo and my miraculous pregnancy (Schwangerschaft) has ended in miscarriage or "Fehlgeburt". Fehlen means "lack" or "abscence", but it also means "want." I choose the latter of these definitions, because our future child is so wanted. A beloved friend told me this week, that we are not having a Fehlgeburt but a Nachricht, or a message. My body has rung a bell and told us (along with all of my doctors) that we are able to get pregnant, that my body did a great job during the pregnancy and that we may naturally become parents.
We are so blessed, because the weight of this Nachricht is so great, that the weight of loss is more manageable. Chrohn's had no effect on this loss, it is blessedly typical. In fact, it happens often to many healthy women.
While preparing to celebrate that civil stage of our partnership, Ivo and I are preparing for our loss. In the meantime, I learn words like "Fruchtwasser" (amnionic fluid) which I produced well and "auskratzen" (the cruel German word that turns "dialation and curetting" into "scratching out", should it come to that.)
Throughout this new experience in our relationship, Ivo and I use our bilingual stock of vocabulary to hold to our vows and love and support one another. This path to parenthood just keeps getting more and more interesting and our partnership continues to prove strong, no matter how it's tested.
3 years ago tomorrow, Ivo and I began our path to parenthood. Tearful conversations and beautiful trust-building sessions with a family psychologist readied us for the adoption process.
5 years ago at City hall, I used my German to say that I agreed to legally bind myself to Ivo Mijnssen for life. But it was in July that he and I used one another's native languages to promise one another our best intentions, our trust, fidelity and support.
Tomorrow we are eligible for adoption in Switzerland. I've come far enough that I could conduct that process in Swiss-German, filling out forms in high German and translate what is necessary for any American adoption agency. But I don't think we will do that. No, this week, instead of using my Swiss German to re-start the process to adopt a child, I am learning the vocabulary of loss. Last week it was confirmed that Ivo and my miraculous pregnancy (Schwangerschaft) has ended in miscarriage or "Fehlgeburt". Fehlen means "lack" or "abscence", but it also means "want." I choose the latter of these definitions, because our future child is so wanted. A beloved friend told me this week, that we are not having a Fehlgeburt but a Nachricht, or a message. My body has rung a bell and told us (along with all of my doctors) that we are able to get pregnant, that my body did a great job during the pregnancy and that we may naturally become parents.
We are so blessed, because the weight of this Nachricht is so great, that the weight of loss is more manageable. Chrohn's had no effect on this loss, it is blessedly typical. In fact, it happens often to many healthy women.
While preparing to celebrate that civil stage of our partnership, Ivo and I are preparing for our loss. In the meantime, I learn words like "Fruchtwasser" (amnionic fluid) which I produced well and "auskratzen" (the cruel German word that turns "dialation and curetting" into "scratching out", should it come to that.)
Throughout this new experience in our relationship, Ivo and I use our bilingual stock of vocabulary to hold to our vows and love and support one another. This path to parenthood just keeps getting more and more interesting and our partnership continues to prove strong, no matter how it's tested.
Freitag, 20. Januar 2012
Ariel Parallel
When I was 8 years old, I was in love with the Little Mermaid. My two best friends had VCRs (we did not) and we watched it nearly every day.
After age 9, however, the first time I saw the film again was in San Francisco last summer. It was on the big screen, in the Castro, round the corner from a bunch of naked men protesting new nudity laws and other tourists in town for Leather fest. We were in the company of young girls in costumes. Everyone had a swag, replete with anything a mermaid fan could want: a clicker to make Sebastian sounds, a dinglehopper for a fun hair-doo, a necklace, a crown, bubbles.....
While watching the film I was transported to all of those feelings I'd had as a child while watching it. When the film concluded, I remembered my confusion at Tritan's sadness. He's worried about "how much I'm going to miss her." As a girl I thought, "but she can always come visit!" Sure, they'd need to hang around near the surface, or she'd need an air tank, but she can still swim around to see her family. As a 30 year old who was living and continues to live 3,000 miles from my family, I experienced the film differently.
Returning to Switzerland left Ivo as wobbly as the newly-legged Ariel. Now that we've settled in we're enjoying all of the beauty of being part of this world. Ivo's been getting career cousnseling of sorts and exploring his options and getting the encouragement that he needs to weather the doctoral storm. We've both been jumping into every work opportunity and have become expert at accepting every social invitation and generally maximizing our here-ness. I'm taking the advice of not giving in to the instinct to tread water and prepare my parenting self and living life childless, knowing that parenthood will come when it comes, but we need to be us until then. That said, we're also shutting out the notion that we may relocate in the next few years, if only temporarily, if Academic oppotunity knocks.
So we dived in and the water's fine, walking around on those - what's that word again - streeeets of Zürich
After age 9, however, the first time I saw the film again was in San Francisco last summer. It was on the big screen, in the Castro, round the corner from a bunch of naked men protesting new nudity laws and other tourists in town for Leather fest. We were in the company of young girls in costumes. Everyone had a swag, replete with anything a mermaid fan could want: a clicker to make Sebastian sounds, a dinglehopper for a fun hair-doo, a necklace, a crown, bubbles.....
While watching the film I was transported to all of those feelings I'd had as a child while watching it. When the film concluded, I remembered my confusion at Tritan's sadness. He's worried about "how much I'm going to miss her." As a girl I thought, "but she can always come visit!" Sure, they'd need to hang around near the surface, or she'd need an air tank, but she can still swim around to see her family. As a 30 year old who was living and continues to live 3,000 miles from my family, I experienced the film differently.
Returning to Switzerland left Ivo as wobbly as the newly-legged Ariel. Now that we've settled in we're enjoying all of the beauty of being part of this world. Ivo's been getting career cousnseling of sorts and exploring his options and getting the encouragement that he needs to weather the doctoral storm. We've both been jumping into every work opportunity and have become expert at accepting every social invitation and generally maximizing our here-ness. I'm taking the advice of not giving in to the instinct to tread water and prepare my parenting self and living life childless, knowing that parenthood will come when it comes, but we need to be us until then. That said, we're also shutting out the notion that we may relocate in the next few years, if only temporarily, if Academic oppotunity knocks.
So we dived in and the water's fine, walking around on those - what's that word again - streeeets of Zürich
Sonntag, 8. Januar 2012
unreasonable concerns
For my second operation, I was to get a bumper of anesthesia through an epidural. The surgery was meant to take 6 hours or more and the spinal entry would keep everything calm. My anesthesiologist was a terribly sweet and friendly man, which is good for a pediatric anesthesiologist.
He told me to give his nurse a big hug, which I did. He'd already given me something to make me relaxed (and loopy) and I said that his nurse was very fun to hug because she was big and squishy. I'd never have said this had I not been given drugs. I also would not have likely told the doc that he had a large nose if I were sober.
10 hours later, I woke very suddenly, in a lot of pain and with a wet back. My epidural had slid out in recovery. A resident put it back in, but it slid out again and I was given a morphine pump. I understand that the epidural sliding out likely has nothing to do with having offended my caretakers. Nevertheless, I'm reminded of this incident in anticipation of my treatment on Tuesday.
When I met the doctor who will be applying my treatment, I was introduced as an American who speaks "Mundart." The fact that I speak swiss-german was cheerily delivered to this German doctor by his cheery assistant Dr.
"She's only lived here 4 years!" He said, grinning. "Perhaps we should all speak in dialect." He added.
The German Dr. groaned and said "keine Chance."
I'm now thinking about this second-hand chiding and hoping that it doesn't effect my care on Tuesday. I'm hoping alot, in fact. I find myself stupidly or sweetly imagining that something might come of our plan this week and that my health may be taking a new, super cool turn.
Who knows. All I know is that I will be as sweet and polite to everybody at the University Hospital . . . just in case.
He told me to give his nurse a big hug, which I did. He'd already given me something to make me relaxed (and loopy) and I said that his nurse was very fun to hug because she was big and squishy. I'd never have said this had I not been given drugs. I also would not have likely told the doc that he had a large nose if I were sober.
10 hours later, I woke very suddenly, in a lot of pain and with a wet back. My epidural had slid out in recovery. A resident put it back in, but it slid out again and I was given a morphine pump. I understand that the epidural sliding out likely has nothing to do with having offended my caretakers. Nevertheless, I'm reminded of this incident in anticipation of my treatment on Tuesday.
When I met the doctor who will be applying my treatment, I was introduced as an American who speaks "Mundart." The fact that I speak swiss-german was cheerily delivered to this German doctor by his cheery assistant Dr.
"She's only lived here 4 years!" He said, grinning. "Perhaps we should all speak in dialect." He added.
The German Dr. groaned and said "keine Chance."
I'm now thinking about this second-hand chiding and hoping that it doesn't effect my care on Tuesday. I'm hoping alot, in fact. I find myself stupidly or sweetly imagining that something might come of our plan this week and that my health may be taking a new, super cool turn.
Who knows. All I know is that I will be as sweet and polite to everybody at the University Hospital . . . just in case.
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